tj cafuir | the Life and Times

A surfer will be wiped out, dragged underwater and hurled by heavy hitting waves time and time again. After this, he has to grab his floating board and paddle back to the lineup to do it again. Easier said than done, surfing is a hard test of endurance. But as soon as he catches that perfect wave, never mind the ache. It is bliss all over.

So last week I got to ride not so perfect waves - but just enough to actually see myself moving one with the board. Also, I was able to experience what’s storm signal #3 feels like when your docked at seaside. Images of the tsunami at Sri Lanka began to conjure. Good thing that when you have Gran Matador, disastrous winds suddenly feel like just the breeze of your normal jeepney ride. Hik.

I want a board and I want it now! I’ve been eyeing this yellow longboard posted on the Surf Forum and I can’t wait to break the hell out of it. I need to get back in the water!

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Nan really has an eye for art. What more if he studied Fine Arts instead of Philosophy at the Ateneo. Hmmm. I think I need to replace my header now with some great photography. *Ahem. Click here for Nan’s People and Potraits.

“It is not the critic who counts, not the man who points out how the strong man stumbled, or where the doer of deeds could have done better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes short again and again, who knows the great enthusiasms, the great devotions, and spends himself in a worthy cause, who at best knows achievement and who at the worst if he fails at least fails while daring greatly so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who know neither victory nor defeat.”

- Theodore Roosevelt @ Sorbonne 1910