Hang Loose

A surfer will be wiped out, dragged underwater and hurled by heavy hitting waves time and time again. After this, he has to grab his floating board and paddle back to the lineup to do it again. Easier said than done, surfing is a hard test of endurance. But as soon as he catches that perfect wave, never mind the ache. It is bliss all over.

So last week I got to ride not so perfect waves – but just enough to actually see myself moving one with the board. Also, I was able to experience what’s storm signal #3 feels like when your docked at seaside. Images of the tsunami at Sri Lanka began to conjure. Good thing that when you have Gran Matador, disastrous winds suddenly feel like just the breeze of your normal jeepney ride. Hik.

I want a board and I want it now! I’ve been eyeing this yellow longboard posted on the Surf Forum and I can’t wait to break the hell out of it. I need to get back in the water!

Tonight, there is a surfer’s party going on at Daet, Camarines Norte. One of the organizers invited me and my friends to come. There’s bands, booze, wahines and I think a competition the day after. I swear that there is no other place tonight I’d rather be than at the party. Unfortunately, Im not a surfer. I’m an employee who happens to surf once in a while. I live a completely different life. I may carry the culture within me, but no. I belong at the city.

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Because my buddies are all lazy pricks, they were all sleeping when I went out to the Magic Left to surf. Nobody caught a picture of me sticking out the hang loose as I surf. So here instead is a picture our adventure that pretty much captures the whole essence of it.*Note, we were leaving Crystal Beach and heading out to Pundakit.

It’s great to be back though. I feel renewed. And guess what, Google lifted the ban on my site! Now that’s another great stoke. Can’t wait till Tuesday to start new initiatives on optimization. Woohoo, hang loose!